We first moved to Alaska and I’d hear people talk about leaving during the winter. Snowbirds, they said. I was incredulous. Why would someone ever want to LEAVE Alaska?

We arrived to AK in 1997 at the height of summer, the season where Alaska shines her best, literally, —we covered our windows in aluminum foil just to have enough darkness to sleep at night—but after that never-dark summer, our first winter was almost magical.

Winter landscapes in Alaska are other-worldly. Fairy tale and history book, geography maps, and a coffee table tome, full-page landscape portfolios…all at the same time…that was Alaska winter…sheer magic.

So those “snowbirds”…I thought of them as fake Alaskans. Half-Cheechako, even as I, less than six months Alaskan, was a full-blooded Cheechako*.

But I thought I knew Alaska.

We’d come from snow country after all, mid-westerners…moonboots and snowmobiles part of our everyday life…soaking up summer before winter came on fast and furious.

What I didn’t know in my Cheechako state was that moonboots in Alaska won’t make it til November, snowmobiles are called snowmachines, and winter comes on faster and more furious, lasting wayyyy longer than I’d ever seen it last in my whole two-plus decades of being a born-and-bred lifelong Michigander. And don’t even get me started on the dark, even though we’d made one of the lightest places in this state our home.

But I learned quick that summer was the elixir that kept us all planted right here in Alaska, and that there is nothing, nothing, like high sun at 11 pm while a campfire burns and hotdogs are roasted for dinner. Or how waking at 5 am feels normal, coming with a full energy store for the day ahead. Or how the mountains look like they are in full rejoice mode from May on, flush with green and large arms raised to Heaven, trying to touch the sun who, in full summer flirtatiousness, never quite reaches low enough to grasp their fingertips.

I love you, Alaska. There is none like you.

But after spending thirty years as one of yours, I get it now.

I understand why people leave. Decades of trudging through your six-month winters—split up over the years, I’m shocked to say it’s been a decade and a half of my whole life that has been spent in your cold, winter months—I get it now.

I get why people snowbird.

Hauling water to troughs at twenty below…days-long power outages from high winds or heavy snow on electric lines…transformers blown because an old tree couldn’t stand up under the weight of it all…trudging through knee-high snow…cold bones.

Cold bones.

I get it now.

So, since that 2021 year that my beloved almost died, held hostage here by distance when the whole world went haywire…ever since, we’ve sought out the tropics to warm bones and melt the freeze of our Alaskan grit…just a little.

I get it.

Five years since that frigid time, we’ve come to this warm place we love, every year since, various clumps of us, each time thawing in different ways, and now, I just want to come here every year. Longer each time.

I want to be a snowbird.

My roots are in you deep, Alaska. You are part of me. My children hail from you. I am proud. You built us and strengthened us, and you’ve formed us into something more we ever would have imagined we would be. Or could be.

But this warm place has such a piece of my heart, and now, I can never go back to just belonging to Alaska all year long.

I can’t afford it on the island. We are blue-collar. We are not rich like the millionaires who have two homes and jet set across the ocean on a whim. It’s unreachable. We are just working to retire in peace someday and maybe leave a little to our kids.

But I just want to snowbird. I want to love my Alaska but also come to Kaua’i and soak up the beauty of this place. The history. The quiet. The aloha. The people. The warmth.

This place reminds me so much of our Alaska…rugged. Off the beaten path of the other 48 states. There is one road in Alaska, here too, on the island.

Try the Big Island. You’d love Oahu. Maui is our favorite. My Alaska friends advise me on all the best places, their favorite islands.

Why would I go anywhere else when I know how much I love it here?

It’s like someone telling me I should try to live somewhere other than the north road. Why would I? Our North Road is home.

And Kaua’i is home.

Our last day, just two short days ago, I buried the remainder of the little supply of my mama’s ashes I had taken over on the plane. Matt and I made a list: thirteen of her favorite places on Kaua’i. Just a little bit here, a little bit there.

Nothing intrusive or dramatic, she wouldn’t want that. But for one whole week, my brother, my kids and I, we all left little pinches of her earthly remains on this place she loved. Sometimes we did it sneaky like, other times I’d pinch some out of the window of the Jeep as we flew down the road —once forgetting there was a passenger behind me with the window open, that was a funny moment—but most times we’d just each take a casual turn with her urn and have a moment to think of her.

The second week of our time, just Matt and I, —having put everyone on a plane back north to jobs after an acceptable vacation—we stayed behind for a few days of quiet us older ones—her urn stayed with us in the cupholder or my pocket, and we crossed off three more of her favorite places before my little 1/2 cup or so supply was almost emptied. Our last day, I put what was left in the sand at the roots of one of the big trees at her favorite beach. When I’d finished and her urn was empty, I realized I will never travel to this island with my mama again.

I’m so thankful for the trips I took with her. We never had any money when I was a kid, but my mama would take my brother and I on little trips all of the time: to the zoo, to amusement parks, camping, to musicals…whatever she could afford…and what an honor it was as an adult, her in her sunset years, to take her to a place she fell in love with so immediately…head over heels in love to the point her favorite flavors became pineapple and coconut…and every single time she’d say…oh, it just tastes like Kaua’i.

She is part of that island now forever, and I can’t explain what that does to my soul. I cried a little when that urn was emptied, but as we traveled our final day, I felt the magnitude of it too, and now, on this first day back in our frozen north land, it makes me feel a little bit warmer to know there is part of her there forever.

And I need that, this first day back in which the snow is deep, and my feet slip into fuzzy Crocs and not the flip flops my feet prefer, those slippahs these toes wore for two weeks straight…the day that warm pants go on under the muumuu instead of just a swimsuit…

I want to be a snowbird. I want to live aloha and be hot at 8 am and watch the sunset at 6:10 pm and then see stars come out bright and not have to wrap up in a blanket to stand outside to see them. I want my bones to be warm and my skin to be tan and my nails to grow long because my body is making Vitamin D like it’s collecting an overtime paycheck. I want to go to sleep at 10 pm and wake up at 6 am feeling refreshed, ready for the day, no alarms, no waking up freezing or sweltering or being groggy when I know I’ve overslept but have no idea if it’s 8 am or 10 am because it is still pitch-black. My body thrives in the tropics. I told my husband, I don’t know what it is, but I feel 15 years younger in this place.

I love Kaua’i, and like Alaska, it holds my heart.

Sweet Ms. Melanie who made my lunch sandwiches…She works three jobs just to live there and help support her family in the Philippines. Aunty Nancy at the gas station, we’ve struck up a sweet little relationship over these few years, and even though she meets a million people from all over the world, we talk each time…she knows the cigars I like to grab with my Diet Coke and she says there is no way I am fifty-two or old enough to have four grown children. She had her first child at the age of thirty-eight and her silver hair is like a crown all combed back, looking like a Polynesian queen. I love her.

Our Jeep guy…as long as he rents out Jeeps, I will never have a need for a private company…he hugs us all and sends lists of the things we need to do and places we need to explore…we bring him fish from Alaska my boy caught out of our wild oceans and his wife becomes an immediate sister to me, and I miss her already.

The sweet couple we met bowling, so fancy in their gear and their bowling stance and scores, realizing they know someone we do here in the 49th and that we could be on a league with them because we have developed a love of bowling like they did…and don’t get me started on Ms Rose at the airport who only wants to come to Alaska as a bucket list trip and go fishing, or Ms Krista at the property rental place who lived in Girdwood for ten years, or the sweet Aunty at the grocery store who once traveled too to Girdwood to promote Kaua’i and did the hula and came home with some walrus ivory…I could go on…the people…man, what a little island in the Pacific has in common with this crazy state way up here off the beaten path…It’s such a small world and I just want to live there, even a few months out of each year.

Just the hardest months.

I’m not an expensive traveler even. A couple lunches out, but mostly picnics at our favorite beach, grocery shopping for dinners in at our low-end condo overlooking the redneck end of the fancy golf course…that’s my kind of travel.

The backside of the fancy golf course was overgrown this year —budget cuts maybe?—and while my husband sleeps in each morning, I got to know who walked their dog early, who power-walks/combo-jogs the overgrown trail, and who sneaks off into the woods with a backpack full of beer, making the stash of empty cans Matt found when he went on an afternoon stroll to explore the little pond across the way that families came to fish out of. Tilapia maybe, and a catfish or two, but I wouldn’t eat anything out of that pond…I think it’s overflow like at the refinery back home. He’s an Alaskan salmon snob, you’ve spoiled us, Alaska.

We ‘d putter into town to grab lunch and take it down to the beach, maybe do some souvenir shopping or people watching, then come back for a lanai sunset and watch the 4:30 convoy of golf carts roll in —nine was the largest count, five the smallest, all in tandem— we surmised there is some sort of daily lesson that happens here on the hillbilly side of this golf course, maybe where they bring those who, like us, obviously have no business being on a world-class course and who would probably have more luck and more fun at the putt-putt course up the road, which we did, and which we loved. An afternoon well spent, full of memories.

Then, just as though they’d rehearsed it, twenty minutes later, they roll out, one right after, forming a single-file line, and just like that, they are gone until the next day’s 4:30 band of misfit golfers.

Shortly after them, almost like clockwork, we’d watch a fancy red quad cart roll up into the middle of the field, and a white-blonde dog would hop off the back seat as the man of the trio whizzed a ball from a Chuk-It —two times precisely— before the female would finish up on her cell phone and hop off the cart, bringing two baseball gloves with her.

The man and the woman would commence to tossing a baseball, —maybe a softball, we can’t tell from the lanai, and we kept forgetting there was a pair of old K-Mart binocs in the top drawer of the condo next to the fish scale—and they’d chat through the tossing…his mom, work, kids…and every now and then, they’d break the rhythm of tossing to heave a ball from the Chuk-It to the dog lying patiently in the grass. We learned after Day 2 the dog’s name was Boyd.

I’d sit lazy in the sun watching it all, plowing through the book I picked up at the little donation-only library at the outdoor mall when my babies were still with us the week before. My youngest, that tall, long-haired Alaskan, he gently helped me find the money box for books nailed to the wall, white and stained there with red dirt and salt water, and I slipped in the four dollar bills I had in my pocket.

That baby, not having his Real ID yet, just a paper copy, I put him on a plane with his big siblings and his uncle, and he’s never traveled without his parents…tall and broad-shouldered as he is, his mama worries nonetheless, so his big sister, that firstborn daughter, she stands on tiptoes inside TSA after they’ve all been through, and knowing with instinct my worry, she finds my face just outside the boundaries, and she gives a me a shaka wave, her in her Carhartt hoodie, sweating there in the tropics but preparing for cold. It’s only her third time here but she loves it like her mama does, and how precious is it that my Alaska babies slip so easily into island life, them with their flannel shirts and knee-length socks-with-crocs, bringing their ruggedness, familiar somehow with this place that is so different from all they’ve known, but so similar too in the and I-don’t-care-what-people-think, odd-man-out kind of way of not caring,

They left and it was just us for a week and I wrote. I wrote a lot. I wrote to the point my professor had to say it was okay for me to say he loved my grasp on the meaning of the literature we were reading as a class but that it was okay to stay within the word limit. My husband laughed at that one. He just doesn’t know you yet,

He chuckled, even after he spent a whole afternoon with me over one of our picnic lunches, giving me good ideas for the piece that was due, and listening to it over and over as I edited it to being just right. He knows how much I love this place and he knows how much I love to write.

He doesn’t even like the beach, but he was a little sad and grumpy our last day…just thinking about all that is waiting for me back home, he told me.

But I knew it was this place. He’s come to love it too.

I’m not ashamed to say I’ve gotten soft. About this Alaska, Kaua’i.

Re-entry has me whining —every single time— and my kids roll their eyes, those tough ones. Rugged, they are. And Matt, knowing how tough I really am down deep, he just lets me go on and moan about him bringing me to this frozen wasteland and choosing it for us, even though we both know it was me prodding him to follow his dreams and drag me along all those years ago.

And I know what a blessing it is to even be able to take a vacation. And how entitled it sounds to be sad and whiny when it’s over. It’s not lost on me that the kids Matt and I once were —still are, most days in our hearts—could have never ever dreamed of taking an actual vacation, especially one to the tropics…completely out of our realm of possibilities,  and once the kids came along, forget about it.

Our vacation was packing up all their 4-H animals to spend the weekend at the fair. Precious memories for sure, but it wasn’t until he almost died and the kids were all late-teens and he had a hefty work bonus on the table and he said, You know what? We’ve never taken an actual vacation and they are almost grown now and this life is short and I think we should go somewhere and show them something outside of Alaska.

We packed them all up and my mama too, and we came to this place I’d come to so many years before, without him and before them, and they all loved it every bit as much as I did those two decades before, and my children slipped into island life like they were born for it and my mama felt like a tropical princess, and it became our home-away-from-home, and now I slip every bit of extra I can find into the place I reserve in my heart and our bank account for…this island that fills our tanks.

It’s not lost on me what a blessing it is. To have vacation time. To have a little extra each payday. To have grown children who can fund themselves now, and who like spending time with their parents, their siblings. To make it a priority. I don’t take one bit of it for granted.

But I learned this trip that somehow, someway, I need to find a way to make this regular. I’m a slow learner when it comes to me, and six trips to Kaua’i and laying a little bit of my mama to rest there has made me realize that this place is such a part of me that I need to be there more than what I am now.

I’ve learned it’s okay to want to be a snowbird. That there are folks who seek out the sun…that just NEED the warmth.

I met a mama at the airport on the way home; she’s from Idaho and had her brood with her. Everyone was tan and happy, but she was sad to be going home. We talked long about how getting cold gets harder as we get older and how our spirits just crave the warmth in order to function at full capacity. She gave me the term: solar-powered.

So I’ve become one of those Alaskans now. Who want to leave.

Who would forsake this magical, majestic northern place for a fraction of each year just to recharge her solar station and keep all systems operational.

I am solar-powered.

We flew through the night, and we met fellow travelers, and I counted up that it takes nineteen hours to get to the warm place I love, and nineteen hours to get back to the cold place I I still love.

When we left Michigan in 1997, it was 4000 miles to get to the land where we decided to put down roots. When we began taking our family to Kaua’i in 2022, it took 4400 miles to get to that land my heart yearns for. It is 4400 miles from Kaua’i to our home start in Michigan. A perfect triangle of miles, 12,800 in all. The place that started us; the place where we raised our family; and now the place that holds my heart.

I am a simple girl and don’t need much. I work from home, diligently and faithfully. I pour into my job, my community, the families I serve; all as I keep watch over mine and the farm they’ve placed under my care. I pluck away at the college courses I’ve handpicked to serve me as a writer; to make my family proud of me and accomplish the goal I set for myself thirty-five years ago.

I love my community and I wouldn’t change one thing about the decisions my husband and I have made since sinking ourselves in here almost three decades ago. I wouldn’t change one thing.

But now, I want to be a snowbird.

I love you, Alaska, but I want to be a snowbird.

Alaska, you have my heart and my soul forever. But so does Kaua’i.

And now, I get it. You’re not a fake Alaskan if you’re solar-powered.

You just get older and this cold place wears you down, chills your bones after years and years of winter, and all of a sudden, you need the warmth of warmer places to recharge and operate and to keep on.

You don’t want to leave. You would never dream of leaving a place that is so much a part of you. You just want to be warm. You just want to be a snowbird.

Our Jeep buddy, Brent, he taught Poppy and I the first year we traveled there as a family and had to leave…he’d hugged us all at the airport and made us feel as though we were ohana (family). We shook hands after hugs all around and kisses on the cheek, he said a hui hou. I smiled and said thank you. He said, you know what that means? And he held my hand and said it slow for me: a hui hou…ah hooey hoh…it means, until we meet again.

And now, each time I leave my beloved Kaua’i, I say it to him, to whichever house we stay, to whichever beach we leave, whichever tree I leave my mama’s ashes under.

a hui hou.

All the time, and I love my Alaska, but my winter bones and my winter heart are there where you hold me warm.

I miss you, Boyd.

I miss you, Kaua’i.

Until we meet again…

A hui hou.

*Cheechako is a term for newcomer, tenderfoot, or greenhorn in Alaska or the Yukon, specifically referring to someone who has not yet survived a winter there. Originating from Chinook jargon during the Klondike Gold Rush (c. 1897), it distinguishes inexperienced arrivals from seasoned “sourdoughs”.